All autoflowering cannabis plants like any other living thing need food to stay alive and grow. But unlike animals or humans, plants use nutrients for this matter.
Automatic plants use large quantities of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) but that is not the end of it because cannabis also needs some “secondary” elements like Magnesium (Mg), Calcium (Ca) and Sulfur (S) but they are used in much smaller amounts than the first three elements.
There are also some trace elements that ruderalis plants require to grow to its full potential and they are Copper (Cu), Boron (B), Zinc (Zn), Chlorine (Cl), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn) and Molybdenum (Mo). These trace elements are required in very small amounts and they usually are mixed in the fertilizer or pre-maid soil.
Autoflowering cannabis plants use decent amounts of nutrients and you need to supply your plant with all the necessary “foods” so you can get amazing harvests and fast growth.
However, if you use a pre-made potting soil then usually it has a mixed in nutrients that will be more than enough to nurture your autoflower plant for the first two to three weeks of its growth but from that point on you will need to supply additional nutrients so there are no deficiencies.
Nutrients in soil
Usually, premium soils have all the necessary nutrients and especially large amount of Nitrogen because it promotes healthy, fast growth. Pre-made potting soil has enough “food” to supply your auto seedling for the first 3 to 4 weeks but the amount of time the plant can grow without additional nutrients can be very different from strain to strain.
Usually, autoflowering plants show signs of nutrient deficiency when they have run out of “food” and this is the time when you need to add additional chemicals. If you are growing very fast-growing autoflowering strains that can be done in less than two months from seed then the premium soil will almost able to supply your auto plant with the necessary amounts of nutrients and you will probably need to feed them only once or twice. This statement is only true if you use a large pot and small growing auto seeds because small pots contain less soil and fewer nutrients so you can imagine how the plant will use it up a lot faster.
If you use regular soilless-mix or ordinary soil without any added nutrients you will need to add all these necessary elements yourself while the plants are growing. But be careful with time-release nutrients as they can do more harm than good.
The best fertilizer for autoflowers
Fertilizer basically is the concentrated cannabis “food” and it is calculated in the ratios of N – P – K elements. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the main elements that allow your ruderalis plant to grow and produce leaves, stems, roots as well as flowers and without these elements, your plant struggles to survive.
The N-P-K ratio is usually displayed at the front of your fertilizer package and it can be something like 10-5-5. These numbers mean that this fertilizer has 10 % Nitrogen, 5 % Phosphorus, and 4% Potassium. The remaining 80 % consists of the secondary elements, trace elements, and a liquid solution(water) where all these elements are dissolved.
Autoflowering cannabis are very delicate plants that require a lesser amount of food than ordinary cannabis strains. This property of autoflowers can be a big advantage for new growers because you don’t need to worry so much about the feeding of the plants and they can survive much harsher extremes.
When you want to feed your cannabis plants with fertilizer, you must always read the labels of the packaging and never give plants more than it is recommended by the specific company.
Automatically flowering plants are basically a ruderalis cross breaded with other strains and the ruderalis gene is very strong in these plants. In nature cannabis ruderalis plants require a very low amount of nutrients to survive and that is why you need to give your autoflowers small amounts of nutrients and never overfeed them.
When you start feeding your plants with fertilizer you need to give ¼ or maybe even 1/8 of the required dose and let the plant adapt to these chemicals and only when you see that everything is OK you can slowly increase the dose. But be aware that it is not recommended that you go further than ½ of the dose that the manufacturer says.
Fertilizers usually need to be dissolved in water and you give your plants their “food” by simply watering them. Usually, a good practice is to water your autos with fertilizer every other watering. You can also water two times with pure water and every third one give nutrients so the possibilities are endless, and you need to experiment and see what works best for you and you and your autoflower plants.
Nutrients for Seedling phase
The first two weeks of cannabis growth are the most crucial because the little seedling is establishing its root system and it is very fragile. At this stage you must be very careful not to overfeed those little sprouts.
You can start your autoflower off with 1/8 of the required nutes or better yet, just give the plant plain water for those first couple of weeks. If you overfeed your cannabis plant at this stage of its growth it is highly possible that the baby plant won’t survive or if it manages to somehow survive then the overall yield of the damaged autoflower plant will be greatly diminished.
If you are using pre-made potting soil with added nutrients then you don’t need to feed those little auto plant for the first two to three weeks so you can relax and forget about those nutrients at this stage of its growth.
Nutrients for Pre-flowering
Regular cannabis plants have a vegetative growth stage but autoflower cannabis plants usually go from seedling phase straight to flowering so there isn’t a distinct vegetative growth period. Some growers do believe that the time when the little sprout gets its true set of leaves till it starts flowering is the vegetative growth stage but anyway it doesn’t matter how we call this stage because we need to feed it just like a regular photo-sensitive plant in its vegetative stage.
When we see that our autoflower plant starts really fast growth we need to start giving it a little more nutrients. Usually, it is best to give ½ of the recommended dose of nutes, but if the plant gets really bushy you can give it a full dose.
At the vegetative stage, cannabis needs a lot of Nitrogen (N) and a decent amount of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The best fertilizer for autoflowering plants at this growth stage is the one that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-5-5 or 20-10-10.
No matter what the percentage is, just make sure that Nitrogen (N) is available more than those other two elements. Autoflower cannabis also needs those secondary nutes and trace elements, but commercial fertilizers usually have a mix of them included in the nutrient solution.
Nutrients for Flowering phase
When the first pre-flowers start to appear you need to change your fertilizer/nutrient solution to a mix that has more Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).
Phosphorus is essential to cannabis bud forming and it has to be very available to autoflower plant when it enters the flowering stage. A fertilizer with a ratio of 5-10-10 or 10-20 20 will be good enough but the best auto-flower nute solutions have a 5-15-10 or similar ratios, because Phosphorus (P) is the most essential nutrient in the flowering stage.
Some inexperienced growers think that you must strictly go by the schedule when you are feeding your plants and if you don’t change your fertilizer to flowering mix then your ruderalis plant will not grow properly. But the truth is that almost any fertilizer even a 10-10-10 N-P-K mix nutrient solution will do just fine and you can give your plant it throughout its life cycle.
You can be very precise and if you have a lot of experience you can boost your yield with appropriate fertilizers but for beginners and medium level autoflower growers it is not as crucial and it is always best to give your cannabis plants less food than overfeed them.
Overfeeding autoflower plants is the most common beginner grower’s mistake and it is a serious one. You can overfeed your cannabis plants and not even know that you are harming until it is too late and your precious autoflower plant starts showing brown leaves or brown spots, starts wilting, or even dying.
Usually overfeeding starts with a salt buildup in your soil. A salt-buildup occurs when you give your plants too many nutrients and they cannot absorb them in time, so the excess elements build up in the ground increasing the PH level of the soil and locking out other necessary elements.
A salt buildup usually makes your ruderalis plant show signs of nutrient deficiency but it only occurs because other elements have blocked vital nutrients and your autoflowering cannabis plant is not able to absorb them. It can be easily fixed with flushing.
A more severe case of overfeeding can lead to a complete nutrient overdose and your precious autoflowering weed can get a toxic amount of them and then there is nothing to do but let the poor thing die and start over again with new seeds.
The best way to not let your plants suffer is to give them a reasonable dose of autoflower nutes and better start slow and build up momentum than just start feeding ½ of the recommended dose and see your cannabis leaves burn.
When an autoflower plant has a nutrient “burn” then it can take up to two weeks to recover and if your ruderalis plant grows only two months then two weeks is ¼ of your plant’s life cycle and you can imagine what that will do to your end yield.
Underfeeding, on the other hand, is much safer extreme because day-neutral cannabis plants in nature are adapted to survive with a small amount of necessary elements and they still grow just fine.
An under-fed plant will be small, have a pale green color, and will, in general, have a sick look.
If you see that your autoflower plant stays small and have small stems and pale leaves, then maybe you are starving it from its natural food. This situation when autoflower plants are starving for nutrients occurs very rarely because cannabis ruderalis plants as I mentioned earlier is one tough plant!
Fixing an underfed autoflowering cannabis plant is very simple because you just need to give it mild nutrient solution and it will be just fine. You can give your plant a small dose of fertilizer and it will recover in a day of two so you can see that under-fed autoflower is always better than overfed (burned) cannabis plant.
My autoflower nutrient schedule
Autoflowers as I mentioned before don’t like to be overfed and they can easily get burned but nutrients are essential for any plant growth so what dosages and what nutrients can you give to your plants?
This all depends on the strain and growing environment but in general, I am using 1/4 or 1/2 or the required dosage for regular cannabis plants and I keep to these schedules:
1 week(seedling) – Ph adjusted water
2 week(start of vegetative) – 1/8 veg nutes
3 week(vegetative) – 1/4 veg nutes
4 week(pre-flowering) – 1/2 veg nutes
5 week(first flowers) – 1/4 bloom nutes or 1/8 bloom and 1/8 veg nutes mix
6 week(flowering) – 1/2 bloom nutes
7 week(flowering) – 1/2 bloom nutes
8 week(flowering) – Ph adjusted water
9 week(flowering & harvest) – Ph adjusted water till harvest
This schedule can be altered depending on the time when your plant starts flowering and when you see the first pre-flowers you need to start changing from vegetative to bloom nutrients.
I need to also mention that this schedule is for a soilless mix that has no nutrients in it so you need to supply all of them artificially.
If however, I use soil with nutrients pre-added then I use a schedule like this:
1 week(seedling) – Ph adjusted water
2 week(start of vegetative) – Ph adjusted water
3 week(vegetative) – Ph adjusted water
4 week(pre-flowering) – 1/2 veg nutes
5 week(first flowers) – 1/8 bloom nutes + 1/8 veg nutes
6 week(flowering) – 1/2 bloom nutes
7 week(flowering) – 1/2 bloom nutes
8 week(flowering) – Ph adjusted water
9 week(flowering & harvest) – Ph adjusted water till harvest
These are the two nutrient schedules I use, but you can create your own schedule depending on the nutrient strength, soil, and strain but these will help you as a starting point.
I hope you enjoyed this article and if you like to know more on autoflowering-cannabis.com you can check out other helpful articles about nutrients like:
- Autoflowers and Nitrogen
- Autoflowering cannabis and Phosphorus
- Autoflowering marijuana and Potassium
- Autoflower secondary nutrients
Book marked, I enjoy your blog! 🙂
Should I use this same schedule when doing autoflower in Hydro ? First time hydro grower ..been doing fox farm soil for a few years and want to try my luck with hydro ..
I live in the uk and I’m just starting my first grow. Its called auto #1 I’m using canna Terra pro plus soil mix with ionic soil range nutrients. Have you got any tips and have you ever used these nutrients?
*LOL* not to mock anybody. But you just gotta love these posts. Do you have any tips? egm he made a homepage with only tips and a couple of tricks on it aswel 🙂 read GDI
Thanks for a great site by the way. been looking for weeks now for a trusthworthy site as this one. i personally will change my nute levels asap using the Biobizz siries as i’ve always been doing in soil and just went with the normal schedule as i was use to do with non auto’s i’ll go half one the nutes as recommended from of today. thanks dude this page is a life saver. love it.
running LED 45×3 watt chipset (90watt wall) with 2×12 watt and 1x 14 watt suplement lights in mylar closet.
use to run 1200 watt hps some years ago. so looking foreward to see what i can get from my new low budet grow closet 🙂
first atemp at LR succes 3x roadrunner #2 3x RCS Cheese auto at day 34 looking good my 2 lst’s looks abit behind the rest tho. think i need more blue spektrum for the next veg. period perhaps.
Hi guys what about cal mag nothing about it here?
Very informative,it really helped this newbie,thank you
Ionic nutes are what I use and have excellent yields,I use soil grow-soil bloom & PK 14:15 and have done for a few years now,tip for you though,when it comes to the PK 14:15 I found the 1ml per litre a bit hot for autos yet 0.75ml per litre done the trick with great yields,I recommend also biobizz light mix soil it’s what I use with the ionic range and plants love it.
i just bought autoflower seed but i need help what kind of fox farm nutrient should i feed the plant and oun when should i start feeding?i was thinking of buying the cha-chin nutrient and give it only that and feed it water till like 3 or 4 weeks int o growing need opinions
Hey I’m just starting and I have the autoflower seeds and the foxfram 3 could you give me a few pointers
Bio bloom for me after 3 wks. Just dont give the girls too much bloom so I just give it HALF a ml all the way through and i’m happy with the results….hope u get it together. i.e. tried Cannes,no good for me but do your own thing and good/happy high luck.:}
I have done the very same as Scot (above) with fine healthy results. Half a ml of Bio-bloom up ’til ’bout three wks left then ”ONE” dose of one ml before flushing….fly high and stay happy 🙂
Just want to correct you where you say 10-5-5 means 10% Nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, 5% potassium.
What it actually means is a ratio of 10 parts Nitrogen – 5 parts phosphorus – 5 parts potassium.
Here you are wrong , these are in fact the actual prosentage not parts! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NPK_rating
Hi all what’s the the nutrients to use for 3 week autoflower please, I’m a first time grower so really need advice, thanks in advance, Sarah.
From your link it appears you are both wrong. Read closer. It is neither percentage nor parts. It is based on weight which must be converted to get the percentage. Read it again.
think of it as a 2-1-1 ratio on pre flower or 1-3-2 on flower stage. nitrogen = up or growth phosphorous = down or root growth. k or potassium = out or yield growth spread. n-p-k. up down out.
Hi, Thanks for a wonderfull post that answered all my questions.. almost.. I wondered what if iam using powder feeding ? And i am also not sure if i should go with the indica or hybrid powder feeding.. ? hope your expertise can help me 🙂
Hi, glad to help you!
For the powder feeding I wont be able to answer any questions as I have not used it but from the reviews the Short flowering formula is designed for autoflowers so I think you should go with that!
Great article, I enjoyed reading it.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom xd
You’re welcome, tnx for stopping by!
I only have one question? What happens if the ratio for the pre-flowering nutrients are in the range of 14-3-6 and the flowering one has a 6-20-9? Does it affect the plant? Or is it better if it has more phosphorus?
I think that it does not matter that much as the pre-flower mix is rich in Nitrogen and that flowering Mix has a lot pf Phosphorus.
If grown for home use I think there is no distinct difference for one or two percent more or less phosphorus in the nutrient mix and if the overall mix is good (giving your plants what they need) they should grow great.
Thanks a lot! I’ll go through with that, then! 🙂
I think this article is going to help out a lot. I’ve just finished my 4th grow and even though my plants end up well, they are often not the prettiest looking and look very sick during the flowering stages. They look beautiful, big and green during veg stage and then once I switch to hps, boom that’s where the troubles start. I think it’s because I’ve only been using a 2-8-4 during flower stage. I think it may be time to get some more and butter nute ratios.
When you say
4 week(pre-flowering) – 1/2 veg nutes
5 week(first flowers) – 1/4 bloom nutes
Are you going from ph water to nutes, so on 4 week maybe you water twice and once with 1/2 nutes? Just want to get an idea on that. If I can get these nutes down I think I’ll be able to yield a whole lot more. Only got 2 ounces on 2 plants last time
Thanks for your help!
I try to experiment as much as I can, so with every grow I try something new,
Exactly at that place, yes you are correct I feed them once with plain PH water and then with Those Bloom nutrients, but that depends on the strain and your growing conditions, and this is just my take, so you have to experiment a lot to get the right amounts for your exact strain.
Hey! I’m back. It’s almost time for the bloom fertilizers, but I have one last question before I start.
How many times do I fertilize? I mean, if I’m going to water the plant on monday, thursday and sunday do I feed them with fertilizer only on monday?
Thanks for your help again. 🙂
That all depends on how stong is the fertilizer and what are your plants requirements.
It is hard to say what is the exact fertilizing schedule for your grow but I would do it every third or forth watering – so once a week.
Smart article- liked it very much
Interesting blog….I just wonder why there is no mention of EC levels, regardless of the NPK values and dossage, if you dont take into consideration the EC value you are really playing a guessing game and will not get the most from your nutrients, i’m sure you are all aware how important the PH level is in enabling your plants to take up nutrients, why no mention of this other very important measurement. Keep in mind that most nutrients will state on the label that the recommended EC value is based on osmosis water with an EC of 0,0. As many/most of you will not be using osmosis or filtered water you are risking a huge overdose.
Another point i would like to make, you talk about flushing soil before planting, if you are all following the advise of this blog why waste good money of high grade (sometimes even toxic) soils if you are going to flush the soil first. personally i only give a light flush of my soil before planting, i just take it very easy on the nutes for the first few week. The soil i use is top quality with medium level nutrients, for me personally soil should have good drainage characteristics thanks to a little perlit..the rest can be adjusted with the right instruments (EC and PH meters)
Hope this helps, feel free to comment, im always open to advice and new ways to grow auto’s, I have only been growing auto’s for a little while but i have managed to increase my yield from 10g per plant to over 100g’s.. Happy farming.
Tnx for the tip, and you are correct – EC values are important but beginners usually do not have the equipment to measure it so I have not included them.
As for the flushing before planting – I usually do it to wet the whole soil and do not let any dry pockets in there as they can be damaging the roots.
I’m a total newbie so apologies in advance if my question is stupid, but the soil I use (Plant Magic Plus) seems to have nutrients already in it. Does repotting a plant have the effect of feeding it, as the additional soil contains additional nutrients? Is this something that needs to be taken into account when considering feeding patterns? I fed mine after the first couple of weeks, and one seemed to have nute burn, so I stopped. I read something that said autos didn’t need feeding at all, and now in week 5 / 6, I’ve started using your approach above. I have, however, repotted a couple of times, so they may have been ‘fed’ that way. The plants are tall (70 – 80 cm) but very light green and lacking strength a little. The stems don’t look as developed as the photoperiod plants of equivalent age, although they are significantly taller. Hopefully I’m worrying about nothing, but if you can think of anything that would make it go smoother, please let me know 🙂
Hi, great question!
Repotting most definitely gives your plants added nutrients, but I would still give them additional nutes, just decrease the dosage to 1/8 or 1/4 of the required amount.
i have a question. if your using the same fertilizer over both phases of plant growth then can you use it without reducing the concentration when flowering begins?
What kind of fertilizer? If you are using flowering one then you can continue but if you have a vegetative fertilizer then I would suggest lowering the dose.
I know this sounds stupid Midowo and I grasp the 1/8 1/4 and 1/2 half rule my question is how much is that per gallon I am number dyslexic as hell.
Has anyone use flower tabs on. Auto flower i used. A fouth o. f a tab ob week 6 fix to put a half one tomorrow. Thst will be weke.
7 or should i put a whole one and be done with i it
Plz help. First time geowing NL. AUTO FLOWER
I reallt appreciate this site, great helping tips. Now I’m in western Australia. I’ve planted my auto lemon haze and grow outdoors in a nice size pot. The soil that I’ve used has got nutrients but also wood bark in it. Now I’ve been using Ozi Magic Gro Juice that has a higher Potassium content than Nitrogen. I have stopped using it because of pale lower leaves with brown tips appearing. I’m thinking nutrient burn? Also its quiet hot here at the moment, 30 – 35 degrees during the day. so I’m thinking to re- pot to use a no bark soil( Although, water drains pretty sweet). Use a different fertiliser. Any ideas, please???
Hi Tom, sorry to hear that you’r Auto lemon Haze is misbehaving 🙂
From the information that you shared it sounds like a Nitrogen deficiency as N deficiency usually starts at the bottom leafs and they slowly become pale and them turn yellow. If I were you I would flush your plant with plain water to get rid of that excess potassium and then I would give it a nutrient mix high in Nitrogen.
But the culprit could also be that wood bark as those mixes sometimes have higher acidity. What is the PH level of that soil and the runoff water?
Just a random question if you had a 15 gallon box and filled with desired medium, could you then plant 3 or 4 auto plants in the same box? Or is it best just to keep them in separate pots ? Answers are very much apriciated.
From my experience you can absolutely plant 4 plants in one box but that will make handling them a little bit more difficult.
First, THANK YOU Midowo for creating this excellent resource and for putting your knowledge and experience into your recently published e-book (which is bought the day you released it). My question is about using general purpose nutrients for autos. In your book you mentioned that decent yields can be achieved with little fuss using general purpose nutes (starting at 1/8 or 1/4 dose, working to 1/2 strength, and then decreasing toward a 1-2 week pH’d water flush). Let’s say the general nutes have an NPK of 10-15-10. I would also use blackstrap molasses (for soil health and micronutes) and epsom salts (for Mag/Sulphur) sparingly. Maybe also a bit of compost tea. In your experience, how much of a difference would using a slightly more complicated feeding regime (separate veg/flower nutes) make in terms of end yield and quality of flowers? What about using a 10-15-10 feed for until the auto is in full flowering, then using just flower nutes for a couple weeks, then flush? Would really appreciate your thoughts on this. The reason I ask is that I have quite a few autos all growing at different stages, so the simpler the better for me, as long as it doesn’t significantly compromise yield or quality. Any guidance would be much appreciated!
Thnx for buying the book!
I think that by keeping everything the same and only changing nutrients you can get 10% to 20% more yield (my rough estimate) compared to general purpose nutes. Now if you calculate the extra cost for all the fancy nutrients and all the extra work that goes into growing then for me personally it is more convenient to stay with simple nutrient solutions. But if you are growing a lot of plants then this 10% to 20% increase can be a big deal.
But it is entirely up to you to decide and the best course of action would be to just experiment with some of your plants and see the results.
Hope this helps.
I use biobizz and when you say 1/2 1/4 and 1/8, do you mean the recommended on the biobizz charts ? Great article by the way ????
Hi, Yes and No – those values are just a guide to how much nutrients you should give your autoflowers compared to regular weed. But every nutrient mix is different so I can’t guarantee that these values are 100% accurate with biobizz products.
Best nutrients for hydroponics. Keeping pH of 5.5-6.0. autoflower seeds.24hr light cycle.Adding co2 and 24hr ox. to roots. HELP!
I am new in growing world and this is my first plant , I have some question about distance of light and smell of the plant , I am growing northern lights auto flower how can I cover the smell or reduced it and what is the best distance between the lights and plants , I am using 3 CFL 24,32,85w
When week 4 roles in do you feed them nutes everyday? It every other? No
Firstly great site, I’m on daily. Got my first grow going, 2 lowryder feminised seeds that popped 6 days ago on a 24/0 with a 200 cfl. I’m using plagron grow mix which claims 3 weeks nutes mixed in. They’re in 8l fabric pots. Do you think I give them a feed come week 3 to 4 or will there enough in medium to go the distance?
Hey love the article. Just a question. If i have the option from roots organics nutrient lines i have both here fully organic line and there 80/20% line of organic mixed with chemical nutrients which should i use for my auto flowers? This would only be during the budding phase i have a complete roots organics “grow” part. But its more of a matter of me having the nutrients taken up better what would you recommend?
Oops forgot to ask also any suggestions on the amount of cal mag or if i need to add any?
Excellent read. I feed 20-20_20. 2 weeks after sprout. One eighth of a tsp. 1 tbsp of mag. 6 tbsp of Cal. 1 tbsp of dark molasses. Water ph at 6.7. Mixed in a one gallon pail of hot water to dissolve all of the powders and Crystal of the Cal mag. Let it sit till water temps are around 16-18 degrees . I feed them this every 2 ND week till my auto stops stretching or growing. Every other week is strt water at a pH of 6.7. After the stretch I go to big bud powder fertilizer 0-49-32 for again every other week. Week 8 stop all feeding and go strt watering till harvest. So roughly they get 3 feeds of 20-20-20 and 2 of the big bud and all the Cal mag molasses to the 8 the week. Hope this helps someone who grows in unnutrient plain soil. This post is only my experience on fertilizer no one else’s. Lights are another post later.
Really good stuff I purchased the book . now coffee and reading.
Thank you William!
Growing autoseeds in soil , germinated with the cup of water + paper towel method , all 5 germinated with 1/2 to 3/4 inch tap root , planted in 5 gallons pots that was watered till run off a couple of days before planting , it’s day 5 today nothing showed up no peeking out yet , noting that I’m water spraying the surface on daily basis. What’s the average for them seeds to come out ?
great article, one important question, i have dyna gro grow 7-9-5. should i not use this during my autos veg ? since the nitrogen isnt the highest part?
Hi i use chili nutriens for my auto but it is only 2.2.2 so i have given 0.0.0 first week and 2.2.2 seckond week and so on, but now i am at week 5 and im scared to give 8.8.8 when i in week 4 gave 6.6.6 it got a bit of brown spots so i have bin waiting a little longer and now the 4cm of the top soil is dry and i have to give som water! But shuld i give 5.5.5 and not 8.8.8 ?
First time growing and going with blueberry autos from ILGM. Have Fox Farm cultivation nation fertilizer that meets the ratios you recommend. I see you say 1/4 of veg nutes in week 4 when using nutrient enriched soil. Would you recommend for a beginner like myself to go with only 1/8 in week 4 and then go with the 1/8 veg and 1/8 flower in week 5? In week 6 should I go with 1/4 bloom rather than 1/2? My biggest worry is overfeeding but I also don’t want to be too cautious and decrease my yield bc they could’ve handled a higher dosage.
last year was my first yr growing autoflower outside in 5 gal buckets. this yr I’ll be using 2 gal. if the soil dries out before next nutrient feeding should I use straight water due to the strict feeding schedule
about to start autoflower and wondering if Alaska brand fish fertilizer can be used more often than once every three wks as recommended